The pumpkin features a sturdy exterior and hollow interior, packed with problems. Like: It’s stringy. And watery. And starchy. Last time I wrestled with these complexities, pumpkin won.
It was October, of course. I spent a week attempting pumpkin lasagna, pumpkin quiche, pumpkin gratin, and came to the exhausted, orange-spattered conclusion that pumpkin is only good sweet. Best to stop at pie.
This go-round, a friend pointed me to the Afghan dish kaddo bourani — pumpkin wedges with meat sauce. The recipe confirmed my suspicions. It takes three hours and three cups of sugar to reveal pumpkin at its best: dense, creamy and delicious.
Served with two sauces — one cool and creamy, one hot and hearty — it’s a meal packed with savory pleasure, and the sweet satisfaction of success.