FOOD ROASTED-PUMPKIN TB

Roasted pumpkin pairs perfectly with meat sauce and yogurt sauce.

E. Jason Wambsgans, Chicago Tribune/TNS

The pumpkin features a sturdy exterior and hollow interior, packed with problems. Like: It’s stringy. And watery. And starchy. Last time I wrestled with these complexities, pumpkin won.

It was October, of course. I spent a week attempting pumpkin lasagna, pumpkin quiche, pumpkin gratin, and came to the exhausted, orange-spattered conclusion that pumpkin is only good sweet. Best to stop at pie.

This go-round, a friend pointed me to the Afghan dish kaddo bourani — pumpkin wedges with meat sauce. The recipe confirmed my suspicions. It takes three hours and three cups of sugar to reveal pumpkin at its best: dense, creamy and delicious.

Served with two sauces — one cool and creamy, one hot and hearty — it’s a meal packed with savory pleasure, and the sweet satisfaction of success.

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